FERRETWARE

This easily installed adaptor will allow you to use off-the-shelf spin-on heavy duty truck oil filters in place of the difficult to find and expensive British ones.

TAKE YOUR STOCK FILTER CAN AND FILTER OUT (FOR THE LAST TIME!) Then just insert the adaptor up into the oil filter header with the cut away area in the proper direction, and while holding the adaptor in position install the 1/2-20 oil pan plug through the top of the filter header. That's all there is to it! The oil filter then spins onto the adaptor!

NOTE: You may want to lift the rear of your engine deck
to make removal of the original top nut easier

If you paint the filter the same color as your engine no one except the very knowledgeable will be able to tell that you are not using a stock filter can arrangement.

Oil changes and filter replacement can now be done with a minimum of effort and mess! Remember how the stock filter can manages to drain itself through your fingers while you try to get the long bolt clear and lift the dripping filter can out of the engine compartment? Now you can change the filter with only a paper towel or two to wipe up the small amount that will come from the top of the filter.

This adaptor has been carefully designed for fit and finish, and been custom machined by a shop Nebraska. This product is so nice you could use it for a paperweight! This is a first class piece of work, and is available ONLY through FERRETWARE

The adaptor will come complete with the top bolt and copper washer.
Shipping will be based on actual postage to your address.

If you would like us to ship you a filter (Fram PH49A) along with your adaptor the price will be around $8 more plus actual shipping.

"I installed the adaptor this evening. Changed the oil at the same time, it was time to do it anyhow. It fit perfectly! I was a little concerned about the length of it though. When I put the adaptor up in the housing, it was just barely below the surface of the filter on the top side where the nut goes. I saw you had flats cut on the bottom side of the adaptor to hold it with a wrench? That was almost all the way up in the housing, couldn't get a wrench on it. It did start to spin a bit when the drain plug was tightened down. But it tightened up just fine. when it was nice and snug the nylon washer gave a little to allow it to seal perfectly. The filter screwed right on. I did pre-fill the filter with Lucas oil additive and oil, then spun it on. It started right up and I watched as the oil pressure came up. I have a gauge right on the filter top housing to check oil pressure. I did notice a bit of an oil leak, running down the filter. After I wiped it away, there was nothing else. The oil actually came from the housing and the original rubber gasket that I left in place. The original filter can came right off, I have taken it apart many time to clean the diaper out actually. I have never had the stock nut on the top off, as it won't come off with the engine deck plate in place. I didn't want to remove the engine deck plate, so I took the nuts off that hold the filter top to the hull, then carefully pried it to get the nut out. Pretty simple install and really took no longer than it would have to just take the factory can off. Now I wont have to clean that diaper, and can replace the filter much easier. I change the filter about every other month or so, now that will be much easier too. I used a NAPA # 1791 filter. It cost me $6.99. The engine took a total of 14 quarts of oil, and almost 2 of those are in the filter. This is a great upgrade for sure!"

NOTE: The engine deck plate can be lifted just far enough to allow access to the top retaining nut on the filter head casting. Unlock the two deck latches, then lift (perhaps with some help) the deck up slightly and block it with a piece of 2x4 at the radiator end. You should now have plenty of room to get your wrench in there to install the new bolt for the adaptor.