FERRET FAQCTRL-F TO SEARCH or SCROLL BAR TO BROWSE |
Not really - its in a state of flux at the moment.
You can find out a lot from the Form 419. Copies of this are available from the following for a reasonable price [ask when enquiring].
Bovington Dorset. BH20 6JG United Kingdom Tel: +44 [0] 1929 403463 Ask for the librarian.
The serial number is more commonly known as the 'hull' number. There is a large cast data plate [aka VIN plate] above the drivers shoulder height on the inside of the hull - usually on the right hand side. The multi-digit hull number will be on this along with the VRN and overhaul dates. Some early ferrets had the VIN plate located behind the transfer lever in a position ideally suited to remove skin from your knuckles.
If the plate is missing look for a small plate welded to the hull interior with a series of numbers on it.
 Sometimes it is located behind the VIN plate or where the VIN plate it is supposed to be...
The smaller hatches on a ferret are usually closed by pulling on a bar type handle. The distance from the handle to the edge of the hatch is about long enough so that if you do not curl your fingers AROUND the handle the edge of the hatch will nip it between the hatch and the hull. It is extremely painful and leaves you with a lasting impression as well as a broken finger or two. I have the lasting impression on two of my fingers...
Ferrets are only as dangerous as you make them. The Ferret Mark 1s [aka Fieldmouse] are generally okay as far as stability goes but the turreted versions do have a stability problem that is compounded if you lose control of the vehicle. Drive it at a sensible speed and with care and you will be okay.
When the driver loses control of a Ferret and it starts to slide, for some reason if a single wheel hits an obstruction then the Ferret generally starts to bounce from one wheel to another until the bounce becomes so great that it flips over. While it is quite spectacular to watch it is invariably fatal to at least one of the crew.
Poor soul. This is the start of a lifetime obsession. Got to the Buy One? page
How does 4-5 man-hours to replace the fan belts sound? You generally cannot manage many repairs on a Ferret without some help. If you are going to buy one then it may be better if you got a friend interested as well - after all you will need someone to sit up top and keep an eye on things.
They are quite easy to drive but it takes skill to control. When I was in the army we ran ferret drivers courses lasting nearly four weeks. That consisted of 4 days on the vehicles mechanics and the rest of the time was spent on driver training. They can be a dangerous vehicle and if you are considering getting one then you should get some assistance from someone who has experience of driving them. Seriously consider it before you even buy your own vehicle as you may subsequently decide that its not for you. This is advice that should be taken irregardless of how good a driver you consider yourself.
Nothing - as long as the vehicle is static. When moving it is downright dangerous due to the change in the centre of gravity. It is possible for the vehicle to roll, the heavier the person the more chance of it happening and anyone sat up outside like that is dead. It cannot be stressed enough how dangerous it is. In most countries, if the police see you, they will pull you over for it.
Nothing - if you try any quick corrections she will just roll. You are reasonably safe within the vehicle and the recommended procedure is to hang-on and ride it out if it is anything other than a slow skid. My usual procedure when the driver lost it was to drop to the floor and hang on to the bottom of the his seat. Do not brace yourself in the turret because when your vehicle hits the ground the turret will start rotating, possibly detach and you will receive additional injuries.
OMD 110 - (Oil, Mineral, Detergent) SAE 30 detergent engine oil to MIL 2104B, C or D the current spec. Your book might list OMD 75 which is a very old specification 10W/30 which the military had a brief affair with, Bat-wing felt oil filters are readily available here, the paper "equivalent" is a Crosland #432 - these are obtainable over there from Crosland or their agents. Fully hot, oil included, the engine should show 30psi (relief valve pressure) from 1000rpm up, extended high revs might show 40psi, and is acceptable with 2psi at idle. The epicyclic gearbox MUST have SAE 30, under NO CIRCUMSTANCES put gear oil in the gearbox. OEP 220 - (Oil, Extreme Pressure) SAE90EP, Hypoid 90, 80W/90EP, GO or call it what you will, is used in the rest of the transmission, - transfer box, bevel boxes, tracta cases and hubs. OM 13 - ISO 15 hydraulic oil. Any ISO 15 hydraulic oil will do, Shell Clavus 15, Tellus R10, Fina Cirkan 15 or the direct commercial equivalent with the same batch release and aero qualification (re-mortgage house first), (Fuchs Lubricants) Silkolene 779. An ATF fluid will satisfactorily work in a Ferret Fluid coupling but not in extreme cold climates. Ferrets with drum brakes had OM 13 in the brake hydraulics early on and most were changed to ordinary DOT 4 (OX 8), some may still be on OM 13. Helpfully brake parts for OM 13 were coded with a green splash of paint as manufactured. After assembly they soon became all green with the rest of the vehicle. Ferrets with disc brakes must use OM-13 I have not tried this and cannot (obviously) recommend it, hydraulic mineral oil tastes entirely different to brake fluid. . . . . . . . . . XG279 - miscellanous grease. AL3 - Antifreeze. Must be in use at all times. I fully expect you'll find the thermostat apparently stuck open as it will warm slowly and not make more than possibly 40�C, let me know if this is the case as its likely fixable. Thanks to various people.
The Ferret Solex 40 NNIP carb is also used on B80 engines - Saladin/Saracen and as far as I can see from the RR Manual TSD 702 the pump diaphragms are identical to Stalwart and 432 B81 Solex 48 NNIP carbs, this would not be surprising as the whole engine range was designed with extreme commonality of parts for mil use. There is nothing special about these internal parts and are a common Solex part of the day. I have no doubt one of the many mil dealers here have new ones that are readily mailable, complete new and used carbs (as I have seen by the bin load), although they'd likely want to just send a complete carb. These are four places that will likely have something that you can email:
There is a particular procedure in TSD 702 for re-assembly of acc pump diaphragms to ensure full and free operation. Reproduced courtesy of Richard Notton For the accelerator diaphragms I have modified the diaphragms used in the Solex carb from a Series IIA Land Rover [Clive Elliott]
Ferret owners/drivers seem to drive with the front "driver's hatch" fully down for better vision. It's hard enough to see from these vehicles, so in this case "bigger is better" as far as the forward visibility is concerned. I've tried the original windshield but its configuration restricts vision to a rather small window with large blind spots left and right. My simple solution was a piece of 7/32nd inch thick, laminated automobile "safety glass". For any Ferret owners out there, just order up a piece that is 14-3/4" by 17-3/4", with 1" radiuses corners. Make sure the glass cutter understands the term "exact measurement", as I had to make a return trip to get my piece trimmed. The exact measurement of the hull opening is 15" X 18", but you need about 1/16th to 1/8ths of an inch on all sides for "wriggle room", and the 1" radius is important, too. The measurements are for my Mk 2/3, but the others should (?) be the same. I just lay the glass in the opening, and is stays there at all speeds. One could make some kind of retainer for the sides but I believe it's unnecessary. The rear slope of the hull and the depth of the hatch recess keep everything in place. I used plain plastic electrical tape and put a piece on each edge, stopping just short of the corners. The tape prevents glass to metal contact on the inside and edges. I don't know it that's necessary. One could also get some simple, thin rubber molding from one of the classic car restoration shops, and use that to really seal the window against rain. Thanks to Ian Wallace for this eloquent answer
This is probably related to the contraction of the metal under cold conditions. Normally the jubilee clip also contracts and maintians the seal but sometimes they are made of too different materials and contract at a different [miniscule] rate and a jubilee clip becomes loose somewhere. Check them all for tightness during a cold spell and you should be okay.
XG means 'miscellaneous grease'. Provided by Clive Elliott
The very early engine green is BSC 216 - Eau de Nil or International Interlac Marine CLF 384. The later and current colour is British Standard Colour 101 - Sky Blue, also available from International Paints as Interlac Marine CLB 968. In the USA a good match for the engine colour is detroit diesel alpine green. Thanks to various people on the Mil-Veh mailing list
Officially OM13. This is a MoD qualified ISO15 hydraulic oil (i.e. The same as domestic stuff but with gobs of inspection and batch test paperwork with an appropriate price tag) Fuch's Lubricants, Silkolene 779 is a direct equivalent in price also but commonly available, as used in every excavator, back-hoe, grab-truck etc., ISO 32 is okay in an emergency, Shell Tellus R 10, Shell Clavus 15, Fina Cirkan 15 or their current replacements are all virtual equivalents. It would seem the Mil used an uncommon ISO 15 hydraulic oil in vehicles of this era because it was already a common stock item and afforded arctic operation, the common ISO 32 is likely only fit for more temperate use but we find it here at every motor factor outlet owing to the proliferation of self load-handling hydraulic "arm" equipped trucks we have. For fluid flywheel (torque converter) use as well as where it is called for in brake systems like those in the Stalwart, I'd stick with the ISO 15 oils. Torque converters and brake systems are very sensitive to oil viscosity. By going to a higher viscosity oil you will decrease the stall speed of the converter and will make your Ferret, Saracen, Saladin, and Fox lurch more when changing and engaging gears as well as making forward to reverse gear changes at idle a bit more difficult or noisy. Will ISO 32 and 46 oils work? Absolutely, but I think you and your Ferret will be a bit happier with the lower viscosity oil. In the US the direct replacement oil was found to be Shell's Tellus T Oil 15, which is an ISO 15 hydraulic oil. This oil can then be cross-referenced to another brand of oil found in your area. Silkolene motorcycle fork oil 2.5wt. is identical. Available at most motorcycle shops in the US. It is not cheap. Another alternative is "Aeroshell Fluid No. 1" or US translated, "Aeroshell Fluid #1" It is exactly the same as Shell Tellus T 15. Thanks to various people on the Mil-Veh Mailing List
The man you need to speak with is Richard Weaver and he is indeed an expert in this area, whether you have lost a title, have an incorrect title, or no title at all he can help you and the fee is very reasonable, you even get to name your own selling price for tax purposes (Lets be honest here so we don't get poor Richard in trouble). I can testify that this was far more easy than dealing with the numerous inspections and countless hours of paperwork here in Texas (and Texas is a "free" state), what he does is register the vehicle in Alabama where the requirements are not so strict and then you go to your tax office and show them the Alabama registration and bill of sale and "Life is Swell".
Thanks to James Newport for this entry.
A. Storing batteries on a concrete floor will discharge them. Modern lead acid battery cases are better sealed, so external leakage causing discharge is no longer a problem. [Temperature stratification within large batteries can accelerate the internal "leakage" or self discharge if the battery is sitting on an extremely cold floor in a warm room or installed in a submarine.] B. A battery will not explode. While spark retarding vent caps help, recharging a battery produces hydrogen and oxygen gasses and explosions can occur. They can also occur when the electrolyte level is below the top of the plates. If a spark or flame occurs, an explosion can occur. When this happens, thoroughly wash the engine compartment with a solution of 50% baking soda and water to neutralize the battery acid. Then thoroughly rewash the engine compartment with water. Periodic preventive maintenance and working on batteries in well ventilated areas can reduce the possibility of battery explosions. C. A battery will not lose it's charge sitting in storage. A battery has self-discharge or internal electrochemical "leakage" that will cause it to become fully discharged and sulfated over time. Prior to storing a battery, it should be fully charged, placed in a cool location above 10 degrees F, and recharged when it reaches the 80% state-of-charge level or once every two months, whichever occurs first. If left in a vehicle, disconnect the negative cable to reduce the level of discharge. D. A charged battery should be left alone. SHAKE THE BATTERY! This effervesces the bubbles from the plates, eliminating more than 50% of sulfation, even if you don't have the ability to recharge it at the time. If it is on the floor, simply rocking it back and forward will suffice. By installing vibrators on your battery banks, life is tripled at the least!
Try contacting Malcolm Scott, Tel [+44] [0]1625 615290. He makes up reproduction champ and ferret parts. His silencer with fishtail is �185 and the fishtail on its own is �20.
There is a knob immediately to the right of the headrest which is mounted to the top plate (mine is silver in colour). Turning the knob moves the sight reticule to the right or left. On mine, the reticule was out of my field of vision, but by turning the knob it came into view very clearly. Try looking through the scope and turning the knob both ways. Reply courtesy of Ross A. Radzykewycz.
The Austin Champ shares the same instrument cluster and has the same ignition lock. Champ Spares UK are about the only place to get hold of one, and they want �20 + vat for one. Nobody over here who runs champs likes the company as they are very expensive and go around buying up all the spares on the trade days at shows. If you want the lock phone [+44] [0] 1283-820050. Reply courtesy of Robin Craig and Chris McMillan.
The United Kingdom entered into an International agreement with Canada and the United States on 27 June 1950, specifying 24 volt electrical systems for military vehicles. Advantages cited at that time include easier cold weather starting, simplification of production, maintenance and supply by having a singular electrical system. Other reasons cited were the savings of critical wartime materials (copper, etc.) because of the reduced size of wiring required for the higher (24) voltage systems. Criticism of this decision from some sectors began even before it was implemented, with a special study being done that affirmed the soundness of this system. The issue was re-examined by another committee in the 70's which, not surprisingly, arrived at the same conclusions as the earlier one.
Chicago Rawhide (CR) makes the closest looking transfer case/bevel box seal to the stock GACO manufactured ones. That number is 19831. This reference number can be used at any Pep Boys, or Napa auto parts store. National makes a similar seal (the one I used). The seal seems to composed of a tougher material, and has the same overall measurements except for its' thickness. National part number is 472492. [Courtesy of Aurelio Menuzzo] I found a seal available in the U.S. which worked extremely well with my ferret's fluid coupling. I got it through my John Deere tractor dealer and it was the least expensive of the seals I tried. It is a double wall seal and is made of longlife material, so it is more durable than the original. Specifically it is part number: AT52447 (John Deere) It is the equivalent of the CR 17395 except it has a double wall making it stronger. I paid $5.41 for it. I tried the CR 17387 but it did not work for me. [Courtesy of Ross A. Radzykewycz] I have been told that there are NAPA kits that are the equivalent to the rebuild kits. The information that I have is as follows: (Please note that I have no actual first hand knowledge as I have not used these parts);
Wheel cylinder rebuild kit: NAPA part 152 This I can tell you: If this info is correct the kits will be reasonably priced and universally available. [Courtesy of Joe Kirby] I received 4 different types of bulbs from Newark. They are all SPC part numbers that Newark carries. The Brand name is Radion (SPC is the manufacturer). The first is 387. It is the little tiny bulb that fits the turn signal and headlight indicators on the drivers left panel). The Newark part number is 50N8103. They are $5 for 10 bulbs. The second is 1251. These fit the right side driver's panel lamp, the interior illumination lamps (they just fit with out dis-assembly) and the side marker lights for the front corners of the vehicle (the white lamps). They are Newark pn 52N6750 and go for $11 per box of 10 bulbs. The third is 1683. These are the main bulbs for the turn signals. I'd suspect they will go in the brake positions as well, but they are single contact bulbs so they aren't quite right for the brakes. They (and the 1251 bulbs) have dual filaments so they are a nice even light that is spread slightly. These are 50N8132 and run for $16 per box of 10 bulbs. One can get to newark at http://www.newark.com [Courtesy of Ryan Gill & Ross A. Radzykewycz] Mustang Equipment has a 24 volt system and they normally stock a two contact bulb which is an exact replacement for the brake light on the rear of my Ferret for $3.75 each. [Courtesy of Floyd Petri] I have been meaning to post to the list a question about where to locate a headlight bulb, perhaps something that everyone else knows, but I haven't accomplished. I have just tracked down the part, easily ordered at most car parts shops in the US. Wagner part #4800 is a 28v 50/40w bulb cost approx $35, also I believe the Wagner 4863-1 is a 80/60w bulb that was not in the store book, but Saturn Surplus has them for $26.50. [Courtesy of Scott Kassa] I went to my local, friendly NAPA store for headlight bulbs. They were able to order Wagner 4800, Military, 28 Volt sealed beams for me. They have the same connectors as 12 volt lamps. I bought two plugs for them & wired them to the terminal blocks inside the headlamps. The sealed beams fit perfectly & there's no modification necessary so everything can be returned to original whenever you want. They cost about $35 each, well worth it to my tired, old, eyes at night. [Courtesy of Bob Raffa]
The Ferret is MOT exempt because vehicles built for commercial purposes pre 1960 are exempt by age. All you need is proof of age and to fill in the exemption form that will be given to you by the licencing office. I'm sure I don't need to tell you that just because it's MOT exempt, doesn't mean it can be unroadworthy. God help you if you crash and it has something like faulty brakes!!!
Reply courtesy of Neill Wrightson & Images courtesy of Chris McMillan
Many people like to keep the original number plates as it makes the vehicle look a bit more authentic. You can fix your new plates to the vehicle in a number of ways for travelling around between shows. The most popular way is to use magnets or magnetic strip. These can hold the plates on the vehicle very firmly, especially the bar-type magnets and they can still be removed during a show.
If your local regulations require a permanent fixture then you may have to improvise! Images courtesy of Ross A Radzykewycz
Opinions vary on this but here are some links.
The size of the mirrors used on a Ferret depended on what was normal army issue for vehicles at the time. As time went by they got bigger so you can use a later style; but if this doesn't solve your problem then try some of our ingenous, though non-standard, solutions.
The paints used on Ferrets were fairly limited in scope. The original interior was an aluminium colour and dreadfully p[rone to transferring itself to the crew. Fortunately modern versions are much less prone to this. The exterior paints were usually one of the following...
Sand Sand & light green Sand & Black Forest Green Forest Green and Matt Black More details can be found on the details page.
This looks like a Japanese flag and is normally found under the Ferret left hand engine compartment hatch. It signifies the radiator is filled with anti-freeze. |
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